Uzbekistan - November 2005

Earlier this month I traveled to the Central Asian countries of Kyrgyzstan and Uzbekistan. Both of these countries are former republics of the Soviet Union and part of what I call the "black hole" in the middle of the Eurasian continent. Very few Americans have even heard of these places, and often their needs are overlooked.

Though it was once part of the ancient trade route from China to the Middle East called the Silk Road, Uzbekistan and its neighboring countries have suffered centuries of wars and foreign invasions, including being annexed by the Soviets who exploited the land to drive its collectivist economy and military advancement (especially nuclear testing). The Soviets did do a lot to establish a good infrastructure (roads, electricity, etc.). However, in rural areas, I met many people who still lack running water and gas to heat their homes.

What I observed in Uzbekistan, and the Central Asian region in general, is a strange cultural mix of communism and Islamism (88% of the population is nominally Muslim). After the fall of the Soviet Union, Uzbekistan fell under the rule of a totalitarian dictatorship with one of the worst human rights abuse records in the world. Heavy-handed government policies create a cloud of political tension hanging over its people, which suggests that a change in power may not be far off, which may or may not be a good thing. Some people are concerned that a small number of Muslim extremists - who have been persecuted by the current regime - may take that opportunity to seize power and turn Uzbekistan into another Iran or Afghanistan. This is certainly a region worthy of our prayers and attention.

On one of my site visits, I crashed a birthday party. But these ladies were gracious enough to set me a place at their table. None of them spoke English (and I definitely don't speak Uzbek), but they wanted me to feel like a part of the group so they kept shoving candies, breads and pastries at me. Who needs to talk when there's food?

This is the "skyline" of Khiva, an ancient city in western Uzbekistan. Khiva has a very violent history and reputation for barbaric forms of capital punishment.

Most of the buildings pictured here are mosques and medrassas (Islamic seminaries). Most of these were converted to museums under Soviet rule.

The irresistible tourist picture . . .

Johannesburg - October 2005

I was in Johannesburg, South Africa, in October for a work-related conference. Though I spent most of my time sequestered to a remote hotel, I did get to go on a couple outings.

I visited a lion park where I got to play with some lion cubs. Unfortunately, they slept through most of it. But aren't they just too cute spooning like that!?!


On another day, I spent an afternoon in Soweto, one of the townships (ghettos) that was a flashpoint in the uprisings during Apartheid. Did you know that Soweto is just a shortened form of south (so) west (we) township (to)? That's kind of disappointing when you have always thought that is was a cool African name. And I always pictured it as a depressed, run-down place, but it's really not. Though it is still has its share of hardship, it is really quite a positive atmosphere. Regardless, it was interesting to visit the places where so much modern African history took place. Read the posting below to hear more about some of the things I learned about Apartheid during my visit.

Taxicab Confessionals Jo'burg: Repentance Over Retribution

One of the things I love about traveling is learning about the history and political conditions people in other parts of the world experience. It’s so much more impactful learning in the actual environment. Everything is illustrated right in front of you. And people tell their stories. Traveling to Johannesburg, South Africa, earlier this fall presented the opportunity to learn about what life was like during the time of Apartheid.

Going to South Africa, I only had an introductory understanding to what Apartheid was. So on the 17-hour, non-stop flight to Johannesburg, I chose to watch a movie that dealt with “new”, post-Apartheid South Africans and their process of recovering from the atrocities of their recent past. The film is called Red Dust and stars Hilary Swank.

The film features South Africa's Truth and Reconciliation Commission – a judicial committee put in place after the fall of Apartheid that sought to bring out into the open human rights violations that were committed under Apartheid rule. The way the Commission worked is that anyone guilty of a human rights violation could apply for and receive amnesty if he publicly confessed and revealed all he knew about the crime. He only needed to convince the Commission that he was telling the whole truth. The makers of the film effectively credited this process for averting civil war in South Africa.

Forgive and forget – it sounded like a nice idea, but I was skeptical that such a simple solution would resolve the trauma so many experienced. On the other hand, I was just as skeptical that that the abuses under Apartheid were really as bad as what the film portrayed. I didn’t have to wait long to find out what the real story was.

I was picked up at the Jo’burg airport by a hired driver named Gary. During the course of the 20-minute car ride to my hotel, I told Gary about Red Dust and asked him what he thought about the Truth and Reconciliation Commission. He both confirmed and disproved my skepticisms as he started telling me his story.

Gary is a white South African who was arrested under Apartheid for dating a black woman who was active in the resistance movement. Her name was Portia. She was highly educated and from a good family – African royalty, in fact. She and Gary were to be married – until she was arrested for her activities just weeks before their wedding and murdered shortly after her release. Portia’s murderers were never caught.

Before Portia’s murder, she and Gary were under constant scrutiny by local police officials. During his imprisonment, police officers held a sack tightly over Gary’s head, threatening to suffocate him if he didn’t reveal information about Portia’s political activities. This was one of the same torture technique featured in the film.

Years later, Gary had his shot to testify before the Truth and Reconciliation Commission against the police officers who tortured him and many others. The officers confessed and received amnesty. So the system worked, right? Not according to Gary. He agrees that the Commission is a nice idea, but that’s all. He doesn’t think justice was served, but he’s not bitter or angry. Instead, he says he’s luckier than others because he has the emotional strength to move on with his life. He says he’s over it now.

Then again, it’s ten years later and Gary is spilling his guts in his cab to some American girl he just met. So I'm not so sure he's "over it."

But can you blame him? If any of us were in Gary’s place, wouldn’t we each stand up and demand retribution? Can you imagine what kind of forgiveness it takes to accept the words of your tormentor over his just punishment? But that is exactly what is so amazing about God’s grace and forgiveness. He does it for us all the time – accepting our words of repentance over our just punishment. It’s a great parallel, and I’d be interested in hearing your views.